Please read the instructions completely before attempting to assemble the building. The instructions are intended as a rough guide only and details may vary due to the variety of sizes available.
1. Lay floor panel(s) (E) in desired position. Remember to leave enough space around the building for the roof overhang and future maintenance. It is essential that the floor is on a solid level base, otherwise the building will not fit together properly and the doors will not fit flush. If the floor has been supplied in two pieces join them together with 40mm nails by nailing into the joining blocks on one piece of floor. Arrange the panels around the floor; it will help you to understand how they fit together.
2. Place the plain gable (A) onto the back edge of the floor, the bottom board of the panel overhangs the floor. While an assistant holds this panel, place a side panel (C/D) onto the floor with the bottom board overhanging as before, to form a corner with the plain gable. Make sure the two panels are butted up to each other and that the bottom framing is flat to the floor, then join the panels together from the inside using two 65mm screws and washers.
3. Repeat with the other window side (C/D). Note – on larger buildings the sides may be supplied in two sections and will need jointing together using the coach bolts provided.
4. Before fitting the door gable (B), unlock the door and fix the handle making sure you line up the keyhole, and then fix as before with two 65mm screws per corner.
5. Fit and screw the truss in place on 10x12 model only. Locate the centre roof purling (H), it sits on top of a horizontal piece of framing on the inside of the plain gable and protrudes out of the cut out on the front gable to allow for the roof overhang. Fix the purling from the underneath with a 65mm screw each end.
6. Place the roof panels (F&G) onto the building, the lip on one side of the panel goes to the top and the large overhang goes to the front.
7. Check that the roof(s) is sitting square on the building and that it is parallel with the sides. If it is not then it is likely that your base is not level and the building will need lifting at one corner with packing to square up the roof before continuing.
8. With the roof square, check that all the walls are sitting properly on the floor. Screw the sides to the floor with ensuring that you screw into a floor joist. Follow the lines of nails already in the base to see where the joists are.
9. Screw the two roof sections together. Nail the roof(s) to the framing on the sides using 40mm nails.
10. Nail the roof(s) to the purling using 75mm nails.
11. Felt the roof using the clout nails and felt provided. Note – the rolls of felt may need to be cut in half. Place a strip front to back at the bottom of a roof section, leaving at least 50mm overhang to the three sides. Secure it with three evenly placed nails along the upper edge. Pull the felt straight and fold over the side of the roof then nail into the side of the framing, approximately every 150mm (6”) working from the middle outwards, so as not to buckle the felt. Repeat this on the other side. Fix the other strips to the roof, working upwards in a similar fashion leaving a generous overlap where the strips join. If a smaller ridge felt has been supplied this goes along the centre of the roof apex. The quantity of felt depends on the size of the building.
12. Fold the ends of the felt and fix the fascia boards (J) to the roof, using 40mm nails to cover the folded felt. The shaped boards go to the front while the back has straight cut boards. Trim felt if required. With two more 40mm nails fix the diamond finale (N) to cover the joint between the two fascia boards – pre-sink the nails into the finale on a hard flat surface to avoid splitting it.
13. Fix the corner strips (I) (long strips) to the outside corners of the building with three 40mm nails.
14. Glaze the building from the outside and the doors from the inside, using the beading provided. Fit all four pieces of beading into the frame before nailing. DO NOT push the beading too tight against the glass as this will cause it to crack.
The doors should be kept closed using the turn buttons when not in use to prevent the natural tendency of the timber to expand and contract with weather conditions. Failure to use the turn buttons could result in the doors warping.